WHAT WE DID IN PORTO

Portugal is known for its vibrant cities, dramatic coastlines, fairytale architecture, and incredible food and wine. And how can one forget the amazing weather with its mild Mediterranean climate.  

We were in Portugal at the end of February and early March. That was the off-season but it helped as there were lesser crowds and the weather was perfect. Not yet hot, but not too cold either. Also, we got good hotel deals. Altogether a win-win.  

We visited both Porto and Lisbon. But since I found both these cities very different in their characteristics, I am making this into 2 blogs, one for each city. Read on to check-out all the places you must visit in Porto and the food you absolutely have to try. 

PORTO

We flew into Porto from Mumbai and took the metro from the airport to our hotel which was located at Batalha Square. This bit was so convenient. The metro station is located just outside the airport. You can follow the signs right from arrival and walk to the platform.

Our hotel was situated in the heart of the old city, steps away from the Santa Catarina shopping street. We walked from the metro station to our hotels, lugging our heavy bags. But we always love walking through streets of Europe, so that was not an issue. It is a good way to get your first look at a new place and get a feel of the vibes. 

THINGS TO DO AND SEE IN PORT

São Bento

Just around the corner from our hotel was the São Bento train station. Known as one of the world’s most beautiful train stations, the main passenger hall features approximately 20,000 hand-painted ceramic azulejo tiles. Designed and painted by master ceramicist and painter Jorge Colaço over a period of 11 years, the walls portray major events in Portuguese history, alongside traditional rural and agricultural life scenes. Though this is a functioning train station, the entry to this main hall is free.

Bolhao Market

Mercado do Bolhão, as it is called locally, is an iconic market in the Baixa district of Porto. Around from 1914, it was closed for renovation in 2018 and reopened again in 2022. The renovated building is genuinely beautiful with a mix of iron and glass. Its sun-filled, two-tiered open-air layout makes the space feel airy and grand. The minute you enter, your senses are filled with the colours, the aromas, and the noise from the various vendors selling everything from fresh fruits and vegetables, to fresh seafood, wines, cheese, flowers, and so much more. 

Please note that the market is closed on Sundays and public holidays. From Monday to Friday, it is open from 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. and on Saturdays from 8:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. only. So, plan accordingly.

Rua de Santa Catarina

This is one of the most famous streets in Porto. This one street has fashion chains, independent boutiques, historic cafés, and century-old chapels all in one place, making it a tourist delight. This street is also fully pedestrianized. Its cobblestone surface and ornate iron lampposts give it a quaint old-world charm. Check out the Majestic Café, a beautiful Art Nouveau landmark that has been around since 1921.  With its gilded mirrors, carved woodwork, and marble tables, it is one of the most photographed café interiors in Portugal. This street again was just minutes from our hotel. 

Clérigos Tower and Church

The Clérigos Church is a Baroque church with a 75-meter-tall bell tower, the Torre dos Clérigos, which can be seen from various points of the city and is one of its most characteristic symbols. You can even climb to the top pf the tower to check out how Porto looks from above. 

We did not do that, but did sit for a while inside the church as wonderful organ music was being played by someone inside. While there we saw notices for the Spiritus light and sound show scheduled for the evening. This is an immersive 360-degree multimedia experience that transforms the 18th-century Baroque interior using video mapping, lasers, and synchronized music. It is a ticketed experience that lasts for around 30 minutes and is totally worth it. 

Livreria Lello

Very close to Clérigos Church, there is this bookstore called Livraria Lello which suddenly shot to fame after the Harry Potter movies became such a hit. This bookstore is often named the most beautiful bookstore in the world because of its neo-gothic interiors, with wood-panelled interiors, a vibrant red staircase, and a glass ceiling (disclaimer: I have no idea what neo-gothic is, but just know that the interiors are really pretty)

But what is the connection to Harry Potter? This bookstore was established in 1906, while the first Harry Potter movie was released in 2001. Apparently, this bookstore was the inspiration for the interiors of Hogwarts, especially the moving staircase. Don’t know how far that is true, but it does make for a good story.

The famous red staircase at Livraria Lello is one of the most photographed staircases in the world! And because of that it was so crowded with people clicking their pictures that we gave up trying to click ours. Also, to enter the bookstore you have to book a time slot online. There is a minimum entrance fee, which is redeemable against any purchase you make there.

Douro River Promenade

Cais da Ribeira is the district on the banks of the Douro River and running up into the heart of historic Porto’s UNESCO World Heritage Site. The riverfront promenade here is absolutely postcard Porto! This area is full of restaurants and outdoor cafes giving you an uninterrupted view of the river. 

Walk across the massive wrought-iron Dom Luis I Bridge from central Porto to Gaia. This bridge, which is another famous Porto landmark, was designed in the 1880’s by Teofilo Seyrig, a protégé of Gustave Eiffel. Yes, the same Eiffel of the Eiffel Tower fame! Today, due to bridge fragility, the upper span is only open to pedestrians and the Porto Metro – which runs right through the middle. But don’t worry there is enough room on both sides of the bridge to stop and enjoy the amazing views.

If you prefer not to take the long walk, you can also take one of the small Douro River cruises, the most popular one being the ‘six-bridges’ cruise. This hour-long cruise takes you upstream and then heads back downstream passing under 6 bridges along the way.

Gaia | WOW Porto | Serra do Pilar Monastery

Gaia which is across the bridge from central Porto, is the port wine district. The riverfront promenade here too is lined with restaurants and cafes. In fact, we stopped here at an outdoor wine- tasting joint. We sat with our wine glasses as we enjoyed stunning photo-worthy views of Porto at sunset. 

Here in the Gaia district, you will find WOW Porto, which is short for World of Wine. Built inside renovated, historic Port wine cellars and warehouses, the district spans nearly 55,000 square meters and celebrates Portuguese wine, food, history, and industries. The area features multiple specialized museums, restaurants, shops, and open-air public plazas that host seasonal events, film screenings and live entertainment. 

You also have the Serra do Pilar Monastery, perched on a hilltop above the Douro River, opposite Porto. This Monastery is famous for its rare, distinctively circular church and circular cloister layout, the only one of its kind in Portugal. Though the actual Monastery is not open to the public, the outdoor terrace has free access. You must visit this for the panoramic view of Porto and the Douro River, as well as the Dom Luis I Bridge.

Fado Shows 

When in the wine district, an absolute must do is attending a Fado show. Fado is Portugal's traditional, soulful style of music. The heart of Fado is saudade, a hard-to-translate Portuguese word meaning a deep, melancholic yearning or nostalgia for something or someone lost. The lyrics tell stories of hardship, the sea, poverty, love, and daily working-class life. A solo singer, fadista, is generally accompanied by one person with a Portuguese guitar and another with a standard guitar. 

When we visited, we chose the package of Fonseca Porto that included a guided tour of their wine cellar and culminated with a Fado show. We chose one with only the complimentary wine option. You can even opt for one that includes a traditional Portuguese dinner along with the wine.

Douro Valley Wine Tour

While on the subject of wine, a must-do day trip from Porto is the Douro Valley Wine Tour. Multiple such trips are available and you can choose any. The trip generally starts from Porto where a coach with a guide picks you up at around 8:00 in the morning. You drive through the scenic UNESCO-listed Douro Valley for around 2 hours. You then have an hour-long cruise on the Douro River followed by a winery tour and a sit-down regional lunch paired with Douro wines. In the evening, as the sun sets, you drive back to Porto after a day well spent.

Aveiro

Aveiro is known as the Venice of Portugal. This is another day trip from Porto that is recommended on most sites. The main attraction here is the ride through the canals on colourful traditional boats. But if you are expecting something like the actual Venice of Italy, you will be sorely disappointed.  We did a half-day tour here, but frankly I, personally, felt the experience was nothing to write home about. But this could also be because we were there in the off-season.

FOOD AND WINE IN PORTO

The food and wine scene in Porto is insane. Can you believe we were getting entire bottles of Port wine at just 2-3 Euros! And the food. Every place we entered, the food was excellent. There is no need to go for fancy stuff. Just pop-in anywhere and you cannot go wrong. Super tasty food all round. So, let me list down the different wines as well as some popular dishes that you must try when in Porto. 

Wine

As you may already know, Porto is world-famous for its Port wine. This wine is produced in the adjacent Douro Valley and aged in the cellars of Vila Nova de Gaia, right across the river from Porto. But did you know there are different types of Port wine? Here is a list:

1. Ruby Port: Has a deep, red, colour and a sweet taste. These have a short aging of 2-3 years. 

2. Tawny Port: Has a golden-brown, amber, or coppery colour and is also sweet. These have extended aging, anywhere between 10 to 40 plus years.

3. White Port: Has a light, transparent colour, and ranges from dry to sweet. This is generally served chilled. 

4. Rosé Port: Is a modern vibrant, pink style wine which is also served chilled. 

There is another type of wine which is unique to Portugal. This is the Vinho Verde, which literally translates to green wine or young wine. That is because this wine is bottled and released just 3 to 6 months after the harvest. 

Till we actually visited Portugal, I thought green wine meant the colour of the wine would be green. But green here meant young. Travel teaches you things you did not know you needed to learn!

Food

1. Pastel de Nata: The most famous dessert of Portugal, this is a crispy pastry filled with soft, sweet, custard, with just a hint of cinnamon.

You must have this warm and fresh from the oven. The best place to try this in Porto is any of the Manteigaria outlets

2. Francesinha: This sandwich, which is a specialty of Porto, is also known humourously as the ‘heart-attack sandwich’. It is made with thick slices of white bread layered with a variety of hot meats, enveloped in melted cheese, and smothered in a hot, spiced beer-and-tomato sauce. The Francesinha is served with fries. Now you know why the nickname.

3. Sardinhas Assadas: Whole fresh sardines are seasoned with coarse sea salt and grilled over hot charcoal. Simple yet delicious. 

   
   

4. Bacalhau: This is basically dried and preserved salted cod fish which is then baked, boiled, or deep fried. There is a saying in Portugal that there are 1001 ways of preparing Bacalhau! So, there you go. Try the one you like best, or try more than one. 

   
   

5. Bifana: This traditional street-food sandwich is made with thin slices of marinated pork, served in a soft roll and dripping in spicy sauce.

As you can see from this blog, there is so much to see, do, and eat in Porto. And you still have to visit Lisbon, the capital of Portugal! Keep Travelling. Keep Exploring.